Getting to Know Trattoria Polese in Rome

Step into Trattoria Polese, tucked in the corner of the cobblestoned Piazza Sforza Cesarini, and you'll be transported back in time. With its rustic brick walls and towering vaulted ceilings, the dining room pays homage to its past, a palazzo, once the illustrious home to the Borgias, a prominent family that rose to power during the Italian Renaissance. A regal pedigree for a trattoria that is deliciously down-to-earth.

Trattoria Polese's dining room retains its palatial feel.

"Ours is a typical Roman trattoria where we prepare dishes using the best traditions," says owner Lorenzo Polese, the second generation of the Polese family to stir things up in the kitchen. His father, Biagio, a self-taught chef who honed his craft while working aboard cruise ships and in restaurants in New York City, opened the trattoria back in 1960. Sadly, the elder Polese passed in 1980. "The restaurant has undergone several changes since those early days," Lorenzo explains, but it's still true to its roots.

While his current chefs—three in all—are masters at preparing traditional Roman fare, with little interest in "nouvelle cuisine," they are willing to take chances and experiment with current trends. Take their carbonara, for instance. Trattoria Polese reinvents this classic dish with fresh asparagus. Their lasagna surprises with fiori di zucca or fresh zucchini flowers, a Roman favorite. And their smoked pork shank roasted in beer, is tender and richly flavorful.

Trattoria Polese way back in the day!

Yet Trattoria Polese offers plenty of Roman standards to please even a purist such as abbacchio al forno, roasted lamb infused with olive oil and rosemary, coda alla vaccinara or braised oxtail stew, and of course, baccalà, deep fried cod fillets so loved by the locals.

In warm weather, enjoy your dinner outside underneath the shade of majestic trees that flower in early spring. The trattoria also houses an impressive wine cellar with vintages from Northern Italy.

"We all feel at ease here," Polese adds. "Our trattoria is informal but we're attentive!"

Trattoria Polese
Piazza Sforza Cesarini, 40
Rome
Telephone: +39 06 686 1709
Trattoria Polese website
Google map

Trattoria Polese is just one of 80 trattorie and osterie featured in Chow Italy: Eat Well, Spend Less (Rome 2013).

Bolognese or Ragù Style Meat Sauce Recipe

Classic Ragù Sauce

Nothing says "comfort food" like Bolognese sauce. But cooking up a pot of it takes a bit of a commitment. It's not especially complicated to master, mind you, nor does it call for any perfecting Italian ingredients that are sometimes hard to come by here in the States. It just takes time—time to finely chopped the vegetables; time to layer all the ingredients one by one in the pot. And finally, time to slowly cook, allowing all the ingredients to meld deliciously together. A good ragù should simmer away for a minimum of four hours making it the perfect recipe to fix on a cold, wintry weekend day. But your efforts are greatly rewarded with the complex flavors of a true Italian treasure.

I've adapted my meat sauce recipe from Marcella Hazan's The Classic Italian Cookbook; the art of Italian cooking and the Italian art of eating. As you can see, my copy is an old edition but it's filled with great recipes nonetheless! Hazan is a master Italian chef, giving precise instructions. It may seem like overkill to some but trust me, the end result is simply sublime. For instance, Hazan demands that you finely chop the vegetables so they'll nearly dissolve in the sauce during cooking. (She right.) Next, per Marcella's strict instructions, be sure to add the tomatoes after all the milk has evaporated. This, she says, gives a sweet flavor to the meat. And finally, don't be in a rush; the sauce must barely simmer on the stove for hours. Don't stress—just pour yourself a glass of wine, turn on some opera, and fill your kitchen with the aromas of Italy. One final note: This is a meat sauce, hearty and dense, not marinara. So if you're looking for a thin, delicate saucy-saucy, move on, sister.

Classic Ragù Style Meat Sauce

4 tbsp. finely chopped onion
4 tbsp. finely chopped carrot
4 tbsp. finely chopped celery
3 tbsp. olive oil
3 tbsp. butter
1 lb. lean ground beef
1 cup dry red wine
1/2 cup whole milk or half & half
1/8 tsp. freshly ground nutmeg
pinch of salt
1 - 28 oz. can whole tomatoes, seeds and stems removed, roughly chopped

1.) In a stock pot with deep sides (so the sauce won't reduce too quickly), sauté chopped onions in the butter and olive oil until translucent. Add chopped carrots and celery. Cook slowly for an additional five minutes.

Finely chop the vegetables 

2.) Add meat to the pot, breaking it up into small pieces with your cooking spoon. Sprinkle with salt. Cook gently until the meat loses its pink color. Do not over cook by browning the meat! Add the wine and turn up the heat to medium high, stirring until all the wine has evaporated.

3.) Turn heat back down to medium low and add whole milk (I prefer half & half for its richer flavor). Stir frequently until all milk has evaporated. Add freshly grated nutmeg (but jarred nutmeg is sufficient, too).

4.) Stir in chopped tomatoes. Once sauce begins to bubble, turn heat down to its lowest setting. If your stove doesn't have a "simmer" setting, place the pot off to the side so only a portion of flame hits the pot.

5.) Simmer partially covered for a minimum of three hours; four to five is optimal. Stir occasionally making sure the sauce doesn't stick to the bottom. You may need to add a bit of water if you find the sauce evaporating too quickly.

Buon appetito!

Getting to Know Vecchia Osteria del Gelsomino in Rome

Beautiful exposed brick archways in del Gelsomino's dining room.

Vecchia Osteria del Gelsomino, located on a quiet side street not far from the Vatican, has a rich history dating back more than 100 years. In those days, explains current owner Lorenzo Mariani, the eatery wasn't much more than a tavern, a local gathering spot where old men played cards and drank wine late into the evening. Mariani's own family has deep roots to del Gelsomino, too. For instance, his mother-in-law grew up in the neighborhood during the 1930s. When she was a little girl, he explains, her mother often sent her to find her father to bring him home for dinner. More often than not, the little girl found him at del Gelsomino, or "The Jasmine" as it was called for the flower medallion hanging proudly over the entrance. Years later, Mariani remembers coming to the osteria with his family. "I used to eat here as a child when Signoria Maria owned the place," he says. "We were always treated like family."

When Mariani became del Gelsomino's proprietor (perhaps it was fate?) 15 years ago, he and his co-owner embraced "la cucina romana," or traditional Roman cooking. "Ours is a true and traditional Roman kitchen," he explains. "We prepare only fresh dishes. The same as a mother would do for her family." To that end, everything at del Gelsomino is prepared from scratch without the use of a microwave or freezer. And although the menu boasts an abundance of Roman specialties such as pasta amatriciana, coda alla vaccinara (a savory oxtail stew), homemade gnocchi (on Thursdays, of course) and pollo alla romana (chicken sautéed with colorful peppers and tomatoes), the entrées are at the discretion of the chef depending on the season and availability of ingredients. Therefore, every day the dishes are different. In winter, for example, you may find orcchiette with broccoli while the menu in spring is sure to offer fresh Roman artichokes and abbacchio alla cacciatora (a classic lamb dish infused with lots of garlic and rosemary).

With a keen eye towards freshness, Mariani shops daily with much of his produce coming from the surrounding hills of Rome; his poultry from local farming cooperatives. He uses only the best beef from Danish or Irish pastures. His pasta comes from Gragnano, a small town tucked in the foothills near Naples and said to produce the best dried pasta in all of Italy. His olive oil? Extra virgin, of course.

Mariani's culinary efforts and attention to detail are deliciously apparent in every bite of his food! After a long morning of touring the Vatican, be sure to stop by del Gelsomino to sample some true Roman cuisine.

Vecchia Osteria del Gelsomino
Via del Gelsomino, 69
Rome
Telephone: 06 630 750
del Gelsomino's Website
Google map

Vecchia Osteria del Gelsomino is just one of 80 trattorie and osterie featured in Chow Italy: Eat Well, Spend Less (Rome 2013).

What Should I Eat When I Visit Rome?

More than half of Latium’s (one of twenty regions that makes up Italy) five-and-a-half million people live in the capital city of Rome where culinary trends are created and where eating habits seem to revolve around days or events of the week. If it’s Tuesday, for instance, polpette, those light-as-a-feather meatballs are the go-to dish. While on Thursday gnocchi, tiny dumplings tossed in grated parmigiano cheese are sure to be il piatto del giorno (the special of the day) at many trattorie. But on Saturday, the aroma of trippa alla romana (tripe simmered in tomato sauce) catches everyone’s attention.

The region of Latium prides itself on its vegetables, too. The countryside just surrounding the Eternal City is mostly volcanic land, and the soil, rich in minerals and nutrients, enhances the appearance and taste of everything that grows. Though fields of peas, beans, celery, and lettuce blanket the nearby Alban Hills, the artichoke (carciofo) is the most popular with Romans. Served deep fried or “Jewish style” (alla giudia) or braised with garlic and then anointed in olive oil (alla romana), they’re always delicious and inexpensive.

Typical trattoria in Rome.

And what about pasta? Yes, of course! Romans take their pasta seriously. There are several specialties that spotlight this ubiquitous staple that every visitor must-try including: amatriciana (tossed with onions, guanciale or pork cheek but with a taste similar to smoked bacon, tomatoes, and white wine), carbonara (a rich, bacon-like cream sauce), cacio e pepe (a simple pairing of grated cheese and freshly-cracked pepper), and gricia (dressed with guanciale, pecorino cheese and pepper). Together these four dishes are the bedrock of a Roman’s diet.

“But where’s the beef?” you may ask. It’s here alright but just not in the form of thick rib-eye steaks. Instead, Romans are known for their slowly braised beef dishes such as coda alla vaccinara or oxtail stew, and other lesser-cuts of meats such as the ever-popular trippa alla romana, or tripe braised in tomato sauce. Lamb (agnello/ abbacchio) is also a favorite and comes roasted, al forno, or small, grilled chops, abbacchio a scottadito. Saltimbocca alla romana, veal scaloppini topped with a thin slice of prosciutto and sage leaves, is a must-try as well.

And although pizza is a Neapolitan specialty, don’t discount the pie in Rome. A thin, crisp crust topped with a variety of fresh ingredients and quickly baked in a wood-burning oven will dazzle your taste buds. It’s true heaven on a plate. Buy it by the slice, “al taglio,” at a take-out stand or order a small, plate-size pie for yourself at one of many fantastic pizzerias throughout the city.

Rome is the best city to start an Italian holiday. The friendly, casual nature of Romans makes dining and touring a delight. In summer, trattoria owners pull tables from hot, stuffy dining rooms out to the sidewalks. People parade by and seek out old friends. If none can be found, they’ll make new ones from the diners enjoying the balmy evening and home-style meal.

Excerpted from the recently-released e-book, Chow Italy: Eat Well, Spend Less (Rome 2013).  

Rome's Favorite Pasta Dishes

Romans take their pasta very seriously. Sure, they like a good risotto ever now and then but pasta makes up the foundation of their daily diet. Furthermore, Romans have their favorite pasta recipes, regional dishes that they proudly call their own.

If you're headed to the Eternal City, here's a primer on the Fab Four, a handful of quintessential Roman pastas (or primi piatti) that you'll find on nearly every trattoria or osteria menu. Try them all--often--and you'll still never have the same taste sensation twice.

Cacio e Pepe: 

Literally translated, cacio e pepe means "cheese and pepper." And for good reason as the recipe calls for pasta, grated pecorino-romano cheese (never parmigiano-reggiano) and freshly cracked pepper. That's it. That's the recipe. But when this simple pairing is done well, it's sublime. Prepared by the wrong hands or worse, using substitutions (or--gasp--adding an off-the-cuff addition like garlic) and you might as well order pizza instead.

Gricia:

The least know of the four but certainly not any less delicious, pasta alla gricia is also a simple recipe. Yet it's the combination of the right ingredients that make all the difference. First up is lightly pan-fried guanciale, a type of Italian bacon made from the pig's cheek or jowl. Not to be confused with pancetta, guanciale has a stronger, more intense pork flavor yet a more subtle texure. Gricia also calls for pecorino-romano (again, never parmigiano), a bit of the starchy pasta water to bind it all together, giving it a "saucy" finish, and it's ready!

Bucatini all'Amatriciana:

Traditionally made with bucatini (a thick spaghetti with a hollow center), amatriciana is named for the town where it originated--Amatrice--an agricultural village northeast of Rome. Like gricia, amatriciana is made with guanciale and freshly grated pecorino cheese but amatriciana adds a bit of tomato to the dish for a more rounded, robust character. Next to carbonara listed below, amatriciana is one of the most well known and beloved dishes in Italy.

Spaghetti alla Carbonara: silky and sublime!

Spaghetti alla Carbonara:

When most of us think of Rome, we think of the Coliseum, St. Peter's basilica, and of course, carbonara. But did you know that the real-deal is simply made with eggs, guanciale or pancetta, and pecorino? That's right--there's no cream in it at all! Instead, the secret to its silky texture is in its preparation. It's the proper technique that can turn this dish into a masterpiece. You see, when the pasta is finished cooking, it's immediately tossed in a bowl where a few eggs, the cheese, and lightly-fried guanciale are patiently waiting. It's the heat from the pasta that "cooks" the eggs and delicately coats the strands of spaghetti.

Pizza in Campo de' Fiori

Forno Campo de’ Fiori

Campo dei Fiori, 22
Telephone: +39 06 6880 6662

Closed Saturday in July and August
http://www.fornocampodefiori.com

Google map

Forno (oven in Italian) serves up some of the best pizza in all of Rome. If you’re hungry and find yourself in the Campo de' Fiori, a tourist mecca with few low-cost eating options, then cue up! This tiny take-out shop is always crowded and hence chaotic. The pizza is served by weight. Try their melt-in-your-mouth fiori dei zucca or zucchini pizza. About €2 a slice. Panini, freshly baked bread and sweets are also available. 

Check out their pizza and bread-making video. It will make your mouth water.

This Week in Italy--The Best From the Web

Train travel is a great way to see Italy, and a recent New York Times article How to Save Money on Train Trips in Italy is packed with loads of tips for saving a Euro or two this winter.

What's the secret to a long life? Beats me but the folks in Campodimele, a small, hilltop village halfway between Rome and Naples may have the answer says British journalist, Tracey Lawson. Her interview with a CNN reporter, A. Powlowski will make you want to head south to soak up the peace and solitude.

Colman Andrews, the co-founder of Saveur magazine and editorial director of the thedailymeal.com, talks about his latest cookbook, The Country Cooking of Italy, a collection of more than 230 regional recipes.

Emily Storms offers three travel tips when visiting Rome. (Hint: one includes bringing your own toilet paper!) And blogger James Brandon offers nine tips for the photographer heading to Italy.

Choosing where to eat while traveling can sometimes be overwhelming. After all there are so many restaurants but not enough time to sample them all. Plus, how do you know which ones are good? Why Go Italy offers 6 of the Best Places to Eat in Italy. (Photos and prices included.)

Live life to its fullest! Book that trip to Italy today!

Buon appetito!